Germany, Denmark, France
December 2010 - January 2011

Saturday, January 1, 2011

14: New Year's Day Paris

....late sleep-in.  Lazy grocery breakfast.  Headed back to the riverboat quay for our consolation cruise.  The boat-ride and the audio narrative that accompanied it gave us a fresh perspective on the city we had been exploring by foot.  Truly, Paris is a beautiful city with much to offer.

After lunch, we preceded to the Eiffel Tower for a last-ditch attempt at reaching the top.  Two and a half hours of waiting in the cold and €13 later, we were crammed into a large, two-floored elevator car in the south corner of the tower.  The climb to the first observation deck was amazing and the climb to the second observation was incredible.  The view from the second elevator car through the steel lattice of the tower on the shrinking city below gave each of us vertigo.  Views from the tower summit were truly magnificent.  A real must-see for any Paris visitor.


Passing under a bridge on the Seine.

Listening to the commentary on really large, cold, metal earphone devices.  Press 2 for English.

Musée d'Orsay from the river.  Did you know the museum was once a train station?




A mini Statue of Liberty

The napkin underneath Jon's Pepsi (served in a Pepsi glass) at lunch

The long wait at the Eiffel Tower was hard on all of us.  The little guy is simply a party balloon filled with flour, purchased from a trinket vendor for €1.50

The view of the tower from our spot in line.  The first elevator travels through the center of the leg in the picture.

A view of the elevator climbing up the shaft from inside the loading area.  It was warmer in there.

They really crammed people in!

Becky and the city.  She is so well illuminated because of the combination sparkling lights of tower and the slow shutter speed of the camera.  (The tower sparkled intensely once an hour)

Jon and the city

Becky at the top of the Eiffel Tower!

Alexander Eiffel still lounging in his top-of-the-tower chambers (life-size models, of course).  Wish we could have hung out in there

Wait, does the red line through the picture mean you aren't supposed to do that?

Calzone, Orangina, and a warm foot soak at the end of the day.  The calzone had a raw egg in it. mmmmm

13: Paris New Years Eve

We slept in till 10:00, ate a grocery-store breakfast and then lazily wandered up the Champs d'Mars for photos of the Eiffel Tower.  

We boarded the metro and headed over to Musee d'Orsay.

Viewed many beautiful originals by Monet, Manet, and Van Gogh (unfortunately for us, Orsay Museum had a strict no-photo policy).  It warmed my artistic heart greatly just to stand in the presence of these beautiful paintings.  After the somewhat lengthy stay at the Louvre yesterday we decided to keep this visit short and sweet--and it certainly was.  By sticking to the hall of paintings dedicated to the 3 artists listed above, we allowed ourselves enough time for repeated viewings, which really allowed us to soak in the beauty.  I wrote down my absolute favorites.

Headed back to the hotel for a preparatory nap at around 14:00.  Woke up at 17:30 and got ready for our big event.  Left the hotel at 19:45 for the riverboat quay.  Boarded our land-locked riverboat at 20:30.  Broke bread and sipped wine at 21:00.  To our relief, very few (if any) people had cancelled their reservation on the boat.  At just about every table sat smiling guests.  Everyone was ready for a good time. 

Despite our cruise being cancelled (thanks to an unusually high water level in the Seine river), we had a very enjoyable night.  Dinner was served in 6 courses, some good, some not so good.  We were served two bottles of wine and a bottle of champagne.

1. Shellfish on a bed of white bean puree (6/10, decent)
2. Foie gras of duck with soaked figs (2/10, foie gras tastes like stinky cheese crossed with something else really disgusting)
3. cheese and salad (5/10, typical french cheese and a refreshing green salad)
4. sea bass (8/10, a breath of fresh air!  tasty sauce)
5. filet mignon (9/10, mmm a nice, meaty finish)
6. ice cream under a chocolate dome and coffee (7/10)

Our friendly neighbors quickly became our 'celebration comrades'.  The language barriers between us (Italian speakers to our left, French speakers to our right) enabled us to celebrate with our neighbors innocently, unimpeded by clumsy words; all we needed to share were smiles and toasts of champagne.

Becky wore Jon's shoes on the walk home.  Jon walked sock-foot.  

What a fun night.  As a consolation for our cancelled cruise, we received vouchers for standard sight-seeing river cruise...


Tangerines and salami sandwiches for breakfast


Posing in the Trocadéro, amid street vendors attempting to sell us purses and Eiffel Tower figurines

Charting our next course in front of the foggy tower

French cheese burgers.  Notice how they were claimed in the name of France.  We referred to the fries as "Freedom fries" out of spite.

Ready for New Years!

Course 1: Shell fish over white bean puree

Close up

Swirling his white wine

Foie gras: mission failed

"Mmmm they sure caught a delicious bass"

3: cheese and salad

Nice smile and some neighbors

Dessert, chocolate dome cracked

Stepped outside to cool off.  Illuminated E.T. barely visible in the background.

Prepared to party.

Happy New Year!!!

YEAAAAAAHH

A good celebration



New Years kiss #1

Taken during our walk back to the hotel.  Jon was surprisingly comfortable walking the Parisian streets in his socks.

Thursday, December 30, 2010

12: Paris day 1

It was still dark at 7:30 so we slept in till 9:00.  Once daylight illuminated the street below our balcony, we spotted a nice looking café on the corner.  Becky had an omelette and tea, Jon had fried eggs, croissont, baguette, and coffee.  Now by coffee i mean a dixie-sized cup of espresso, not a giant mug.  It was all very good.  Onward to the adventures!

First we stopped by the paris tourism office to pick up our museum passes (used to gain speedy entry to over a dozen museums in the paris area).  

Second stop was the louvre!

Only a few steps out of the metro station we could see the renovated castle of the Louvre, inside of which lived so many treasures of marble and canvas.  The famous glass pyramids of the museum sat in a sheltered square cradled by the arms of the castle.  It was there that our museum passes first showed their use: with our passes in hand, we were allowed special entrance into the museum, bypassing a queue of people that was probably a half mile long. 

Inside the museum we wandered around many nude statues and ancient artifacts.  We descended a couple floors to view the stone foundation of the Louvre castle.  

We got our bearings and navigated over to the classic oil paintings.  Some paintings were very very large, displaying epic battles between angels and demons.  Some paintings were mesmerizing in their brilliance, appearing more like photographs than like works of the human hand.  Other paintings were nice but forgettable (*cough* Mona Lisa *cough*).  Though some were better than others, each painting exuded enough dignity and authority to attract its very own crowd of camera-wielding tourists--and not everyone obeyed the 'no camera flash' rule.

After an hour and a half we were 'all museumed out'.  We sat in a corner between Italian Classics and Mesopotamian Pottery to snack on the tangerines and baguettes that Becky had smuggled into the museum (HEHEHEHEHE).  We decided then to leave the Louvre and head over to the Notre Dame cathedral.  Little did we know how long that excursion would take.

From our map we could see that the Notre Dame cathedral was only a mile or two from the Louvre, on an island in the Seine river.  We walked along the river, stopping occasionally at the merchant stands to buy a postcard or to look at artwork.  Before long, we could see the iconic notre dame spire.  We crossed the street and entered a cafe across from the cathedral to eat lunch (french onion soup and spaghetti).  As we ate, we admired the cathedral's Gothic architecture (my, those flying buttresses were very buttressy).  

We took a brief tour of the cathedral sanctuary (full of brilliant stained glass, statues, vaulted ceilings, prayer candles) and then walked outside and around the corner to tour the famous towers.  We joined the queue for access to the towers at around 15:30, just as staff began turning people away.  We waited in line for over 2 hours, with one of us periodically leaving the line for refreshments (we used cups of hot wine to thaw ourselves when the idle queue left us frozen).  

Once admitted to the towers, we faced the task of climbing 69m in a spiral staircase, which under the circumstances (cold weather, slow-moving line), was a very welcome bit of physical activity.  

The views from the tower were incredible.  In the company of charismatic gargoyles, one could see many parisian monuments (unfortunately, we were only able to snap a single photo before the camera's battery died).  Up a second, tighter, spiral 147-step staircase, we arrived near the roof of the tower, where we enjoyed even more incredible views (360º view of the city... really awe-inspiring).  

An hour after ascending the towers, night fell and we headed back to hotel prince.


Adjusting her contact in the Louvre square

See the pyramid in the background?

Getting ready to Louvre it up

Some large, Mesopotamian statues.

Pausing for a photo in front of a massive oil painting.

Becky and Mona.  For being such a small painting it attracted a large crowd.

A photo taken by a stranger in the Louvre square.  Eiffel Tower in the background.

Have fun with it

Smile fer the camera

Love padlocks (cadenas d'amour) on the Archbishop's bridge

French onion soup, spaghetti, and Bordeaux wine across from Notre Dame cathedral

Becky and the pensive gargoyle.  Keeping them apart is a metal fence.  Too bad.